Abstract The combination of avobenzone (AVO) and octyl ρ-methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used to ensure broad-spectrum photo-protection because they absorb UVA and UVB, respectively. However, they are thermally and photo unstable because they degrade and undergo photo- tautomerization and trans-cis isomerization, thus reducing their photo-protection efficacy during UV exposure. This study aimed to evaluate the potential use of the antioxidants ferulic acid and resveratrol as stabilizing substances in AVO and OMC mixtures in solution or emulsion. The effects of both antioxidants on the thermal/photo-stability and suppression of the filter singlet state, besides skin permeation, were evaluated. Both antioxidants contributed to preserving OMC and AVO during the thermal stability test, which relates to the maintenance of photo-protection even after storing the formulations at high temperatures. Nevertheless, although resveratrol retained part of the OMC trans isomer and suppressed the AVO singlet state when exposed to UV, no contribution to photo-protection stability was observed, contrary to expectations. Regarding the permeation assay, the addition of both antioxidants was accompanied by a reduction of AVO permeation, while resveratrol increased OMC permeation. Thus, the chemical and physicochemical properties of these antioxidants impacted their efficacy and safety profiles; therefore, further studies are required to establish the real cost-benefit ratio for their use in sunscreens. (AVO ρmethoxycinnamate ρ methoxycinnamate (OMC broadspectrum broad spectrum photoprotection protection UVB respectively However transcis cis isomerization exposure emulsion thermal/photostability thermalphotostability thermal/photo evaluated test temperatures Nevertheless observed expectations assay Thus profiles therefore costbenefit cost benefit sunscreens photostability thermalphoto

The Ginoide Hydrolipodystrophy (GHLD), commonly known as cellulite, occurs in 80-90% of the female population after the puberty period and comes from a metabolic modification in the cutaneous adipose tissue. Caffeine has been used in topical formulations due to its lipolytic action. We studied a nanoemulsion (F3) containing caffeine with two surfactants (oleth-3 and oleth-20) by emulsification method by phase inversion temperature inversion (PIT). The polydispersion indices (PDI) showed the reduced deviation of 0.1. The mean droplet size was ~ 40 nm. The evaluated constant of Ostwald, in the refrigerator condition was the most favorable during the stability test. In the In Raman spectroscopy assay, the caffeine bands found in F3 were compatible with those found in the caffeine solution (1337, 652.5 and 558.2 cm-1). There was no interaction of caffeine anhydrous with other ingredients in nanoemulsion. In the in vitro safety assay the result of 1.4 ranked the F3 as slightly irritating. In the natural membrane, cutaneous permeation test (human skin) permeate concentrations did not exceed the saturation concentration of the PBS buffer (48.96 µg/3 mL). The caffeine solution and F3 permeated statistically equal, but the nanoemulsion visually and sensorially improved the caffeine precipitation.

ABSTRACT Hair care products play a significant role in the cosmetic market and aim at improving hair brightness, breakage resistance, and color change. In this study, we analyzed the possibility of the formulation of oxidative dyes in different vehicles impacting the hair’s both mechanical and physical properties. Light brown and light blond dyes were prepared using eight different vehicles. Among these, four vehicles were emulsifying agents and four gelling agents. Each formulation was applied to two types of virgin Caucasian hair (light blond and dark brown). Physical, chemical, and organoleptic properties of each formulation were assessed, as well as changes in hair parameters after oxidative dyeing, such as staining intensity, brightness, and breaking strength. The parameters of color and brightness differed in some formulations, but the hair type also responded differently. Brightness parameter was increased in dark brown hair colored with both dyes, whereas light blond hair showed the opposite result. Regarding the breaking strength, there were no significant differences between the two kinds of tresses. Cosmetic formulations should adjust the consumer desired effects (e.g. color change) in order to present minimal drawbacks (e.g. decrease of hair brightness and strength). Thus, the study of different vehicles is important when establishing the best oxidative dye formulation.

O aumento da demanda global por produtos naturais, cuja produção não envolva nenhum dano ao meio ambiente, tem estimulado o desenvolvimento de cosméticos naturais e, dentro desta categoria, dos produtos orgânicos (que contêm 95% de matérias-primas orgânicas). O protetor labial é um produto cosmético semelhante ao batom que tem a finalidade de prevenir o ressecamento dos lábios, mantendo a hidratação, e protegê-los contra fatores ambientais adversos. Este trabalho envolveu o desenvolvimento de um protetor labial formulado com matérias-primas orgânicas e avaliação dos parâmetros de estabilidade, como ponto de fusão, características organolépticas e funcionalidade (teste de espalhabilidade). A formulação selecionada após o Estudo de Estabilidade Preliminar foi submetida à Avaliação Normal de Estabilidade, nas seguintes condições de armazenamento (temperatura): Ambiente (22,0 ± 3,0 ºC), Estufa (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) e Geladeira (5,0 ± 1,0 ºC), por 90 dias. Nas condições de armazenamento em geladeira ou ambiente, a espalhabilidade foi adequada, mas a superfície apresentou pontos esbranquiçados, caracterizando o fenômeno chamado fat bloom, que está relacionado à recristalização da manteiga de cacau. O armazenamento à temperatura elevada (40,0 ± 2,0 ºC) provocou perda de funcionalidade, de acordo com o teste de espalhabilidade, e mudança de cor, apesar do aspecto permanecer uniforme, visto que não foi observado o fenômeno fat bloom. O odor manteve-se estável em todas as condições, assim como o ponto de fusão, com valor médio de 72,9 ºC ± 1,7 ºC durante todo o período de avaliação do teste de estabilidade (90 dias).

Rising global demand for natural products whose production is harmless to the environment has stimulated the development of natural cosmetics and, within this category, organics (95% organic raw materials). The image of environmentally friendly production is one of the strongest attractions of organic products. Lip balm is a cosmetic product similar to lipstick whose purpose is to prevent lip dryness and protect against adverse environmental factors. The product's characteristics are: resistance to temperature variations, pleasant flavor, innocuousness, smoothness during application, adherence and easy intentional removal. This work involved the development of a lip balm formulated with certified organic raw materials and the execution of stability tests: fusion point determination, evaluation of organoleptic characteristics (color, odor and appearance) and functionality evaluation (spreadability test). The formulation selected after the Preliminary Stability Test was submitted to the Normal Stability Test under the following storage conditions (temperature): Room Temperature (22.0 ± 3.0 ºC), Oven (40.0 ± 2.0 ºC) and Refrigerator (5.0 ± 1.0 ºC), for 90 days. Under the Refrigerator and Room Temperature conditions, spreadability proved adequate, but the surface presented white spots, characterizing the fat bloom, a phenomenon involving the recrystallization of cocoa butter. Storage at 40.0 ± 2.0 ºC (Oven) caused loss of functionality according to the spreadability test, in addition to changes in color, although the aspect was uniform since the fat bloom was not observed (white spots on the surface). The odor remained stable under all conditions as did the melting point, which had a mean of 72.9 ± 1.7 ºC throughout the course of stability testing (90 days).